Watercolor Paper
by Jack Richeson

This paper is made to the exacting
standards of Jack Richeson, the late Zoltan
Szabo, and myself. I have used
this paper almost exclusively, pushing it
to the maximum, for the last five years. It
is the best all around water-color paper
I have ever used.
Made in Somerset, England,
the paper is shipped to Wisconsin where
it is trimmed to size (handled with
sterile plastic gloves to avoid getting
any oils on the paper) and packaged
into ten sheet packs or made into watercolor
blocks. The 22” x 30” sheets
have four beautiful deckle edges. It
is a very slightly warm white in tone
and made of cotton fibers. It is a
ph-neutral paper for archival standards
and is internally and externally sized.
(The external sizing aids in lifting
the color from the paper.) It comes
in 140 lb. and 300 lb. weights
and in both cold press and rough textures.
I especially like the natural rough
texture compared to many papers that
have a very uniform, regular, and even
machine-textural quality.
This paper is also packaged in Stephen
Quiller “Signature Series” watercolor
blocks with the same weights
and textures. It comes in sizes 11” x
15” and 15” x 22”,
featuring a watercolor painting of
mine on the cover.
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| For adventurous painters, Jack Richeson
is also cutting the paper into large
sizes, 40” x 60”! I find
this 300 lb.-weight paper magnificent.
There is nothing like diving into one
of these large sheets of paper with some
3” and 4” flat brushes and
a #24 round. Of course this paper can
be cut to any unique size as well, so
the paper becomes very economical. This
paper is crated in sheets of ten and
shipped directly from the factory. |
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Premium
Watercolor Paper |
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| QPP 700 |
22" x 30" |
140 lb Cold Press |
$55.00 |
| QPP 701 |
22" x 30" |
140 lb Rough |
$55.00 |
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| QPP 702 |
22" x 30" |
300 lb Cold Press |
$119.00 |
| QPP 703 |
22" x 30" |
300 lb Rough |
$119.00 |
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| QPP 704 |
40" x 60" |
300 lb Cold Press |
$525.00 |
| QPP 705 |
40" x 60" |
300 lb Rough |
$525.00 |
Quiller
Watercolor Blocks |
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sheets per block) |
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| QPP
706 |
11" x 15" |
140 lb Cold Press |
$22.50 |
| QPP 707 |
15" x 22" |
140 lb Cold Press |
$35.95 |
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| QPP 708 |
11" x 15" |
300 lb Cold Press |
$35.95 |
| QPP 709 |
15" x 22" |
300 lb Cold Press |
$63.70 |
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| QPP 710 |
11" x 15" |
140 lb Rough |
$22.50 |
| QPP 711 |
15" x 22" |
140 lb Rough |
$35.95 |
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| QPP 712 |
11" x 15" |
300 lb Rough |
$35.95 |
| QPP 713 |
15" x 22" |
300 lb Rough |
$63.70 |
Expert Tips on Sizing Watercolor Paper
The internal sizing is mixed
in with the paper pulp and controls the
absorbency rate of the watercolor. Without sizing,
the paper would act like a blotting paper. External
sizing is added to the surface of the paper so
that the color can be lifted or removed from the
paper more easily. The Stephen Quiller
Watercolor Paper by Jack Richeson lifts
as well as any paper I have used!
Keep in mind there are so many factors that
affect the lifting process.
- Color that is still a bit damp
lifts much better than color that
has dried.
- Granulating color, earth color, and pigmented
colors lift much easier than staining,
synthetic colors.
- Humidity also is an important ingredient.
In the hot, arid summer climate of
the southern Colorado mountains, the paint
seems to bake on, making the paint
much harder to remove.
- In a moist and humid climate with soft days,
the artist has much more time to
manipulate paint and a long time in
which to lift.
The Technique of Lifting Watercolor from the
Paper
There are many things to
consider when lifting paint from the paper. First,
it is most important to choose a paper that has
an external sizing. All watercolor papers have
an internal sizing, but papers with external sizing
allows the paint to come off more easily. However,
this sizing is not a magic cure-all. I like the
lifting process because it allows me to create
a variety of visual qualities. I can leave hard
edges or soften edges easily. I can put down a
large dark wash of color to lift and put in light
areas. This gives me more ways to put down the
paint and a variety of ways that the paint can
be seen.
Second, the paint lifts much better when moist
rather than dry. Thus, the more areas that can
be lifted while the initial wash is still damp,
the better. If you are painting in an area with
high humidity such as the Oregon coast rather
than a dry area such as the Colorado mountains,
you have much more time to lift.
Most important, the selection of colors that
are used makes the greatest difference. For instance,
colors such as a true viridian green, cobalt violet,
manganese blue, and Naples yellow lift very easily.
The pigmented colors such as burnt sienna, ultramarine
blue, and the cadmiums lift pretty well. However,
the staining synthetic colors, such as the phthalocyanine
green and blue or the quinacridone reds and violets
actually stain the paper and will not lift well.
Further, a more synthetic water media brush, such
as the Richeson #7000 series, is a bit more durable
and stiffer fiber, which will help remove paint.
The pure sable brushes are too soft and also too
valuable to use for this effort.
My recommendation is to get some good paper
and practice putting paint down and lifting
it back. Use some staining colors and some
pigmented colors and notice the difference.
I even have a chart of all the colors that I use,
a patch of each and let them dry. Then I use a damp
synthetic bristle one inch flat brush and with clear
water lift the color. Try lifting some of the same
colors while they are a bit damp. With a little
practice you will get the hang of it and it will
add to your vocabulary as an artist.